A Look at 19th Century Men's Gilded Leather Shoes (Harry William Morris boots)

Imagine stepping back in time to the late 1800s, a time when fashion was a spectacle of elegance and extravagance. Among the treasures of this era are the remarkable ankle boots that adorned the feet of stylish gentlemen. Let's take a closer look at a pair of these exquisite shoes.

Harry William Morris shoes. Norfolk, England, Date: c. 1890-1899

Crafted with meticulous attention to detail, these ankle boots are a blend of silvered leather, black silk brocade, and gold gilded accents. The silvered leather forms the vamp and lower quarter of the boots, while the upper quarter is enveloped in a luxurious black silk brocade. This brocade features a woven design of vertical cream lace stripes, adorned with delicate pink alstroemeria flowers.

What truly sets these boots apart is the intricate gilding that adorns them. A floral motif, reminiscent of a daisy with its delicate petals, is meticulously gilded onto the leather. Each flower is offset by a leaf topstitch, adding depth and dimension to the design. The gilding extends from the vamp to the brocade upper, seamlessly joining the two materials together.

Examining the construction of the boots reveals the expertise of their maker. The center front opening, secured by a combination of gold-covered grommets and brass shoe lace hooks, ensures a snug fit. Yellow laces, with matching tassels at each end, add a touch of flair to the ensemble. Meanwhile, the tongue of the boots, crafted from silvered leather and edged in black silk binding, provides additional comfort and support.

Attention to detail is evident even in the smallest elements of the boots. The center back narrows in at the ankle, providing a sleek silhouette. A dark olive green floral silk brocade lines the interior, adding a touch of opulence with every step. Underneath, a brown leather sole, along with a stacked one-inch heel, ensures durability and stability.

Noteworthy are the unique features found on the soles of the boots. The center sole, covered in brown leather, is joined to the front sole with an elongated S-shape, showcasing the craftsmanship of the shoemaker. The heel tip, made of tan leather and adorned with small gold and silver studs, including three gold stars at the inside center, adds a final flourish to these remarkable boots.

Though the label is absent, these boots are attributed to Harry William Morris, both the creator and manufacturer, during the late 19th century. A testament to the skill and artistry of the era, these ankle boots stand as a symbol of a bygone era of elegance and refinement.