One of the largest ancient monuments in the Americas, the Llaqta de Kuélap ruins in northern Peru, were forced to close to visitors in April 2022 due to damage from high rains. However, restrictions have since been placed on entry.
The site, which is in the Andes Mountains in the country's Amazonas area, has recently grown in popularity among foreign tourists, particularly as a substitute for the overcrowded Machu Picchu. It is particularly striking for its scope. "Kuélap’s size is monumental," says Peruvian travel expert Marisol Mosquera, the creator of eco-luxury travel agency Aracari Travel, noting that some of its outer walls are over 60 feet tall and that, in contrast to most surviving structures from the time, it is made of stone rather than adobe. According to the Chachapoyas culture, which predates the Incas, it is also older than Machu Picchu, she continues. The scenery is breathtakingly gorgeous.
Warriors, shamans, farmers, and merchants are thought to have lived within the fortified citadel, which covered approximately 37 acres and is located nearly 9,842 feet above sea level, from roughly 900 to 1400 CE. Machu Picchu is located at an altitude of around 7,972 feet. The location, which was once the thriving political hub of the Chachapoyan civilization, was destroyed during the Spanish conquest of the 16th century, leaving behind the ruins of civil, religious, and military buildings as well as 420 circular stone homes, which were discovered in 1842 and decorated with murals, carvings, and geometric friezes.
However, the southern portion of the fortified town's outer wall collapsed in April of last year, forcing the closure of the site. The deterioration and ultimate collapse, according to José Bastante, Director of the Interdisciplinary Research Program of Kuélapthe, were caused by "the infiltration of rainwater into the artificial platform core of the monument," which places a large amount of pressure on the outside wall.
The local team collaborated with the World Monuments Fund and the Getty Conservation Institute to come up with better drainage systems and water damage mitigation strategies for the buildings. Bastante claims that since then, work has been done on stabilizing the perimeter wall as well as archaeological investigations, conservation, and maintenance in various areas of the site. They have also renovated the drainage system and strengthened the surfaces of the structures in the southern half.
The Llaqta de Kuélap reopened to visitors on August 19 following nearly 16 months of construction, but there are now quotas in place "for conservation and safety," according to Bastante. Between the hours of 8 a.m. and 5 p.m., 144 visitors are permitted to enter the central part of the ruins; groups of 12 visitors enter through the Access 1 entry point every 45 minutes. (There is hope that visitor capacity and time restrictions will be able to rise by November.) Visitors must make a reservation through a recognized travel agency or make a direct request, and they shouldn't show up without a verified reservation. According to Promper, Peru's tourism bureau, as part of the reopening, visitors will enjoy a significant benefit: entrance will be free through the end of the year.
Bastante states that a "great portion" of the Llaqta de Kuélap remains inaccessible to tourists due to "security measures" because of the fragile nature of the ruins. The Archaeological Monumental Zone of Kuélap (ZAMK), a 336-acre area that is home to five archaeological monuments, is home to these ruins as well, but he advises visitors to keep this in mind.
The wider ZAMK region was similarly shut down in April 2022, but some parts of it—including an interpretation center and a real Chachapoya house—reopened in July. Visitors can also stroll down a pre-Hispanic path in the vicinity to witness the Llaqta de Kuélap's front. People who don't have reservations or arrive after their scheduled time will still be able to access such locations.
Bastante notes that preparation is crucial in the wake of the collapse, particularly acquiring reservations to help manage visitor flow and upkeep. He declares that the sites of our archaeological monuments are sacred and vulnerable. "They should be treated with the same reverence as all other holy sites around the world,"
The drive to Kuélap, which begins in the city of Chachapoyas and takes less than two hours from Lima, is a significant component of the experience. From there, visitors can take an hour-long bus excursion to Nuevo Tingo, where they can either walk for about 5.6 miles or ride the 2017-opened 20-minute cable car to get to the site.
Despite Kuélap being a significant highlight of the Amazonas region, Rocio Florez, the proprietor of the Gocta Natura Reserve, an eco-lodge in adjacent Cocachimba, points out that it is not the only draw. Additionally, the region is ideal for exploring other citadels like Yalape and Ollape and funerary sites like Revash, Lengate, Karajia, La Petaca, and Laguna de las Momias—where more than 200 mummies were discovered in 1997 and are now kept at the Leymebamba Museum—as well as outdoor pursuits like hiking, rafting, and birdwatching (especially in Cocachimba's Valera district). She claims that because the area is so historically significant, visitors should take the time to explore the communities and landmarks around, which help put Kuélap's story in context.
Everyone in the area is working toward the same objective: promoting slow and attentive travel not only in Kuélap but all throughout the Amazonas, and allowing visitors more time to discover the area's history and culture. Florez explains that "it is a land of discovery."
